petit déjeuner avec un libyen

So it's been nearly a month that I've moved to Paris and I'm finally starting to feel less lonely and getting the hang of things (even though I was here for a few months in 2012). This morning I sat down for breakfast at my hotel at what I thought was an empty table, but turns out there had been someone sitting there already.  It was an older Arab man, probably in his 60's.  I asked if I could sit with him and we ate in silence for a good ten minutes before he asked if I spoke English.

He asked what I was doing in France and after a brief discussion about my job, he explained that he was here for medical treatment.  He mentioned that today was his lucky day because in the two months since he'd arrived at the hotel, I was the first person that had spoken to him.  He speaks only English and Arabic and doesn't understand French.

To pass time, he explained, he takes walks around the neighborhood (not a very vibrant one, as the hotel is in the business district here), or he takes the metro into the center.  I couldn't imagine being somewhere for two months and not having social interaction.  My second day here I was crying because I missed my sisters!

He was happy to learn I was American (and Muslim) and asked a few questions about life in the States, my family, etc. At the end of breakfast I mentioned that I would pray for him and his illness, to which he replied he's not actually sick…but here for medical tests, paid for by the Libyan government.

Turns out he had been walking on the street one day during the war when he saw a tank fire at a group of people.  They were motionless, so he ran in to take them into cover with a group of other bystanders.  The tank fired again, this time at the rescuers…and everyone was killed, except him.  I was pretty much speechless as he rolled up his sleeve and showed me the bullet scars…definitely not what I was expecting when I sat down that morning.  

I hope his last month here goes well and I'm glad I was able to provide some sort of friendship!

Fudge - The Fudge Kitchen, Bath, UK

My friend surprised me with a box of fudge when we were in Bath, England. Surprisingly, The Fudge Kitchen doesn't have locations in London (I think the closest location is in Windsor).

My first impression was "this is like biting into frosting..." but when I brought the fudge back home I couldn't stop eating it! It's more firm than frosting. If you're desi, imagine the texture of a sandesh. The flavors I tried were Strawberries and Cream, After Dinner Mint, Belgian Chocolate and Mocha Chocolate. The Belgian Chocolate was definitely the best. I'm happy to know you can order them online and have them shipped to the States!

Macarons! Pierre Hermé & Ladurée

I've had macarons on my list ever since I saw the cupcakes vs macarons poster on Paris vs New York, a tally of two cities. I decided to try both of the leading macaron stores in Paris, Pierre Hermé & Ladurée. Both stores have several locations in Paris and can be found fairly close to each other at the Opéra metro stop so I went there one afternoon.

I first tried the chocolate macaron (the full name is escaping me now) at Pierre Hermé. It was very rich, almost like biting into a dark chocolate truffle-- I couldn't taste much of the cake/biscuit portion of the macaron. I purchased a full box of seven flavors, including pistachio, rose and jasmine for about 18 euros- pricey considering that they are bite-size.

I didn't have time to visit the nearby Ladurée store, but got lucky the next day when I went to the Palace of Versailles. There is a small Ladurée boutique inside the palace where I was able to get a box of 6 for 14.50 euros.

I absolutely loved them! You taste more of the cake in their macarons and so they are less overwhelming compared to the the indulgent taste of Pierre Hermé. Their fillings were superb as well with hints of almond and butter. My favorites were the rose and pistachio. If you are into chocolate mousse, truffles and other creamy desserts, you will prefer Pierre Hermé...but if you are into cakes and buttercream, you will probably like Ladurée better.

Luckily for me, Ladurée is coming to Fifth Avenue this year!

My Old Dutch Pancake House; Cupcake Review Vol. 19: Peyton & Byrne

This was supposed to be a cupcake entry but I had to mention My Old Dutch Pancake House in London. On my trip earlier this month my friend took me there on a Monday, when all pancakes are only ₤5. You get a giant pancake with your choice of toppings, chocolate sauce and ice cream. The taste is very similar to a crepe, and it was so huge I could only finish half. I recommend sharing if you go with a friend! They have both sweet and savory options.

On to the cupcakes:

Bakery: Peyton & Byrne

Location: Various throughout London, UK; I went to the Bakery at St. Pancras International Station

Rating: 7/10

Website: http://www.peytonandbyrne.co.uk/peyton-and-byrne-at-st-pancras/index.html

Peyton & Byrne is a chain of restaurants and bakeries I came across while waiting in St. Pancras for my train to Paris. I saw the cupcakes in the window and realized that I hadn't eaten a single cupcake in London! I purchased a double chocolate and a vanilla chocolate cupcake to share with my friend Ruzina, who was waiting with me until boarding. I also threw in a blueberry muffin for the train ride (which was delicious).

I wasn't disappointed- the frosting was very light and fluffy compared to the thick buttercream we are used to here in the States. The cake was a spongecake, and so the cupcakes almost tasted like many Asian bakery cakes here in Queens. I'm not really a fan of Asian cakes. However, the chocolate flavoring was much stronger than the kind you find in Asian bakeries and that was the redeeming factor. Overall, I would eat them again! Glad I was able to try them.

West Coast & Cupcake Review Vol. 17: Sprinkles

This is a LONG overdue post (from last Fall!) but I realized that I never posted about my first time trying Sprinkles! Long story short- I did not like their cupcakes. The cake part was delicious but the frosting was WAY too sweet, even for me- hence the half eaten cupcakes.

Bakery: Sprinkles
Location: We visited the location in Newport Beach, CA, but there are various locations including Beverly Hills, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, La Jolla, New York, Palo Alto, Scottsdale and Washington D.C.
Rating: 5/10
Website: http://www.sprinkles.com/

I do have some lovely pictures from my travels though:

west coast, a set on Flickr <---you can see the entire set here

A Scene from Muharraq

Inspired by a restored courtyard in the Muharraq area of Bahrain, this painting was a gift for my friend Mariam. This is my first painting in 4 years so it was kind of hard to get into it, but hopefully I'll be painting more now.

Cupcake Review Vol. 11: Clever Cupcakes

Bakery: Clever Cupcakes

Location: Al Aali Complex & The Center, Sanad, Bahrain

Rating: 7/10

Website: http://www.clevercupcakesbahrain.com

My first international review!

These cuppies were a welcoming present from my friend Mariam in Bahrain..she had them waiting the first night I arrived. I did eat them for breakfast a couple of times during my stay. Honestly, it's been a while since I ate them so I can't comment in detail. The cake was pretty thick, and the red velvet didn't taste like red velvet in the States (it was more like vanilla cake with vanilla frosting). The Oreo cupcake tasted very similar to other cookies and cream cupcakes I've had, and the Nutella-Cadbury Flake cupcake was absolutely amazing! I doubt I can find such a flavor anywhere around here. I did however bring back two huge boxes of Flake bars from Heathrow duty-free, so I guess I can just make my own :)

"The Irish need not apply."

I encountered several Bangladeshi immigrants in Italy, and they were much better off and doing their own thing: waiting on tables, selling food at carts, and helping to run convenience stores. I didn't realize just how many immigrants (both legal and illegal) reside in Athens.

Street vendor demonstrating toys; March 14th, 2009

Denied employment from Greek store owners and the like on the basis of their nationality (and regardless of legal status), they sell whatever small goods they can get their hands on from suppliers. This usually ranges from bottled water and tissue boxes to cheap toys that barely bring in enough income to pay for housing. Their only desire: to raise enough money to return home.

Protest after the death in January - Getty Images (not my own)

I didn’t know how bad it was until I discovered that this past January, the accidental death of a Bangladeshi immigrant occurred in Athens when the police were trying to uproot the vendor. The man, who was in his mid-20’s, was pushed into a ravine and fell to his death. According to the Athens Independent Media Center, these immigrants are also subjected to harsh beatings, incarceration, and even deportation on the basis of accusations alone. A Bangladeshi man was imprisoned and deported for the theft of a cell phone which was later discovered to be his own; another was also incarcerated and is facing deportation for allegedly stealing a cell phone charger (Athens Independent).

A man sells tissue boxes to drivers; March 14th, 2009

One man I spoke to during my visit was actually deceived by the person that issued his visa, as he had guaranteed him employment. He now lives on a day to day income derived from selling his toys to tourists. Even though he is a legal immigrant, our conversation was cut short due to the police arriving on the scene as they don’t recognize street vendors. I'm a bit embarrassed to say that I was crying on the streets of the Plaka District for a man I didn't even know. I managed to tell him that he looked like my father.

His story is one that touched me personally. No one wanted to hire my father initially when he came to the States- which is why we spent a few months without a home in Brooklyn, why so many immigrants become entrepreneurs, and why my father went on to become a self-employed cab driver. Regardless, the treatment of immigrants here is still ages ahead of many countries in Europe.

Bangladeshi men living in a cardboard "house" await deportation- Getty Images (not my own)

I wish I had gotten that man's name but I didn't have the time as he disappeared so fast. In my prayers he is the "Faridpur Man in Athens." Faridpur is actually my mother's home district. All I could really give him were a couple of euros I forced him to accept for a toy he gifted me in the midst of my tears, but when I can write something that I deem good enough, I'll give him a poem.

Greek, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi flags in downtown Athens

Itinerary

Day 1 > Saturday, March 07 > Leave Boston! Transfer in Paris, iA one day I'll get off there too =0)

Day 2 > Sunday, March 08 > Rome
Rome city walk
Spanish Steps
Trevi Fountain
Pantheon
Piazza Navona

Day 3 > Monday, March 09 > Rome Landmarks
Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel visit
St. Peter’s Basilica visit
Colosseum visit
Forum Romanum visit
Piazza Venezia

Day 4 > Tuesday, March 10 > Rome--Sorrento
Travel to Sorrento via Pompeii
Cameo workshop
Pompeii guided excursion

Day 5 > Wednesday, March 11 > Sorrento--Bari
Travel to Bari
Overnight cruise to Patras

Day 6 > Thursday, March 12 > Patras--Tolo
Travel to Tolo via Olympia. Staying at a beach resort!
Olympia site guided visit

Day 7 > Friday, March 13 > Tolo--Athens
Travel to Athens via Epidaurus & Mycenae
Epidaurus site guided visit
Mycenae site guided visit
Corinth Canal

Day 8 > Saturday, March 14 > Athens Landmarks
Athens guided sightseeing tour
Parthenon
Acropolis visit
Temple of Athena Nike
Omonia Square
Syntagma Square
Olympic site
Athens city walk
Plaka district
Temple of Olympian Zeus
Hadrian’s Arch
Plaka

Day 9 > Sunday, March 15 > Back to Boston =**(